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How To Combine Knitting and Fabric & Make Your Own Patterns and Garments

Page 3:
How to make knitted trims and knitted bias.

My Passion is Knitting - Size from large to plus sizes up to 6X

Trims and Tricks

Knitted Bias Binding

A bias binding makes a nice tailored finish for the front edge, neck, and bottom of a plain sweater or jacket. To make a bias binding: Cast on 2 sts. Work in stockinette stitch, increasing 1 st at the beginning of every knit row until total number of sts measures 1½ inches or desired width. Then on each knit row, increase 1 st at beginning of row and decrease 1 st at end of row. Purl all sts on return row. Continue in this manner until trim is desired length, keeping in mind that a bias piece will stretch considerably more than a straight edge. To end, dec 1 st at end of every knit row until 2 sts remain. Bind off. Block strip and attach to edge of garment as you would any bias binding when dressmaking.

Shaping Shoulders by Turning

By turning instead of binding off to shape shoulders, a neat diagonal line is formed, which can then be bound off in one line, and front and back sections may be grafted together. Or, when the shoulder shaping has been completed, the back and front shoulder sts may be woven together with the Kitchener st. The directions given here are for a shoulder of 28 sts with a turn made every 7th st (3 turns). A turn may be made after any number of sts, depending on the slant desired.

To Shape Left Back or Right Front Shoulder

Follow the directions for armhole shaping until you reach the shoulder shaping row.

1st turn row: On the right or knit side of work, knit across to last 7 sts (21 sts K), bring yarn forward as if to purl, slip next st (which is the 7th st from end of left needle) and pass the yarn around and to the back of work again (Fig. 1).

Pattern 5

Return the slipped st to the left needle (make sure st is not twisted). Turn work and purl back across row.

2nd turn row: K 14, bring yarn to front of work as if to purl, slip next st and pass yarn around to back of work again. Return slipped st to left needle, turn and purl back across row.

3rd turn row: K 7, bring yarn to front of work, slip next st, and pass yarn to back of work. Return slipped st to left needle, turn and purl back across row. (Three turns completed.) Bind off all 28 sts or place them on a stitch holder if shoulders are to be woven together with Kitchener stitch.

To Shape Right Back or Left Front Shoulder

Shape by working on wrong or purl side of work.

1st turn row: Purl across to 7th st from end (21 sts purled), slip next st, pass yarn around slipped st to knit side of work (Fig. 2), and return slipped st to left needle. Turn work and K back across row.

Pattern 6

2nd turn row: P 14 sts, slip next st, put yarn around slipped st to knit or front of work. Return slipped st to left needle, turn and K back across.

3rd turn row: P 7 sts, slip next st, wrap yarn around slipped st to front of work and return slipped st to left needle. Turn and K back across row. Bind off all 28 sts.

Knitted-in Hem

This hem is sometimes called a "picot hem" or hem with "treasure teeth." As the turn row is knitted with eyelets, it gives a dainty, decorative finish to any garment. It is especially nice for the bottom hem or cuffs of a plain jacket or sweater.

Pattern 7

TO MAKE HEM:

Cast on the required number of sts, using the "knit on" or single thread method of casting on. Work to the desired depth of hem (ending with a purl row), knit a row of eyelets for the turn row; K 1, * y o (yarn over), K 2 tog. Repeat from * across row, ending with K 1 (always knit the 1st and last st of row).

On the next and purl row, purl the yarn over as ordinary sts. Work the same number of rows as before turn row, again ending with a purl row. With another needle, pick up the loose sts on the cast-on edge (the number should equal those on other needle).

Fold up on turn row with wrong sides tog, bring both needles together and with 3rd needle, knit the two together (Fig. 3), taking one st from front needle and one from back needle, and knitting them both off as one stitch (Fig. 4).

This will form a hem with a picot edge.

Pattern 8

Knitted Inserts

Knitted inserts may be made by making strips in any desired length and width, using a single pattern stitch or a combination of stitches to form a design, such as seed stitch, cable stitch with a couple of purl sts on each side to complete the strip, or a fancy design such as sprays of leaves, etc. These strips can be used as trim for a knitted or fabric garment or used as inserts in a fabric garment. If a garment is not to be lined, it would be wise to face the inserts to prevent them from stretching.

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How To Combine Knitting and Fabric & Make Your Own Patterns and Garments

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Source: This article is re-published by Eastman Publishing. The information contained in this article is from a Cooperative Extension Service, Oregon publication titled Knitting - Creative Use of Leisure Time - 1966.

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