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Page 4: Combining Knitting With Fabric Suits, dresses, skirts and sweaters, jackets, etc. made with a combination of fabric and knitting are becoming more popular each year. This is where you can really use your imagination and ingenuity. You can use matching or contrasting yarn and fabric. There is no limit to the combinations of yarn and fabric that can be used. You can combine wool yarn with wool flannel, mohair with linen, wool with silk, thin with thick, old with new, and any other combinations you may think of.
There are very few patterns made especially for combining knitting with fabric, but almost any knit pattern can be adapted. The easiest approach is to pick a sweater pattern with straight lines, with bands knitted on separately, and just omit the bands, neck ribbing, bottom ribbing, cuffs, and collars, wherever fabric is to be substituted. When using a bias roll binding, it is better to have knitting inside the band for a nice thick roll; but for a flat band, it is best to stitch the material to the edge of the knit. If the band is of light weight material, it can be self-faced ; but if it is heavy, it is best to face it with taffeta or some other lining fabric, especially if the band laps for buttons. One of the big problems is finding yarn and fabric that match. When shopping for your materials, be sure to take the yarn and fabric to the daylight before buying. Often colors that seem to match or blend under artificial light will not be the same in daylight. Of course, you can use contrasting colors instead of matched ones and this makes it easy to choose your materials. There are also kits available that include yarn and fabric for a skirt or dress. There is usually enough of the skirt material to use the leftovers for trimming a sweater or jacket. Construction Tips Always check the grainline of your fabric. The grainline in large measure determines how well your garment will fit and hang. Have a trial layout before pinning your pattern on your fabric. This will help you avoid mistakes. It will give you an opportunity to make certain you have enough material, to be certain all pieces are included, and to check the placing of pattern pieces if your fabric has a definite up and down or a one-way design. Take care when cutting out your garment. The pattern for a dress is like a blueprint for a building. Problems result if the pieces do not fit together properly. They will fit properly only if they are cut out accurately. All markings should be made clearly and exactly. Select the kind of markings you use with care. Thread tailor tacks take longer to make than tracing paper markings, but they are easily removed. Stay-stitching on neckline, shoulder line, waistline, and other bias edges prevents stretching in fitting and handling of the garment. It isn't just "wasted" time. It helps to create a professional look in your completed garment. Press as you sew. Pressing at each step in construction is another must if your garment is to have a professional look. Pressing not only keeps your fabric smooth, but it shapes the fabric. If you are working without a pattern, it will be wise to cut any difficult pieces from muslin and baste them in place to check for fit before cutting into your material. If your material is expensive or scarce, this step can avoid tragedy. Don't forget to try buttons covered with fabric or yarn. When using knitted inserts in a knitted garment, if the garment is to be unlined, it might be wise to back the knitted insert with net or some such material to prevent it from stretching. If linings are desired, cut around blocked pieces before assembling, allowing 1 inch all around. Fold back in half and lay fold on fold of lining material, then move top edge (back of neck) in 1 inch from edge, tapering to edge at bottom. This allows for pleat at back of neck. Sew seams of lining by machine, then slip stitch edges to sweater or cover with band facings where indicated. Make a French tack at armhole, sleeve seam, and side seam to prevent sagging. Warning: Never stitch the lining of a knitted garment firmly at the side seams as the lining must not control the knit garment. Suggested Garments
1. Straight classic cardigan with raglan sleeve. Front bands, yoke, and skirt of fabric. Front bands and yoke top stitched by machine and faced with taffeta if fabric is heavy. Buttons covered with fabric. 2. Soft wool fabric suit with knitted inserts. Jacket lined. 3. Knitted cardigan with tweed yoke, cuffs, and bottom band to match skirt. Sweater knitted with a self-faced band on front edge—K 5, slip 1 (for turn back), K to end of row, purl straight across return row. Buttonholes may be knitted in or worked by machine later. Yarn buttons. 4. Mohair raglan sleeve jacket with bias bands of fabric to match sheath. Sleeves may be ribbed at cuff or finished with bias band of fabric. Bands are mitered at corners, and set back over knit to make rolled effect. 5. Wool jacket with knitted collar, sleeves, and pocket tabs. Collar, cuffs, and pocket tabs worked in K 2, P 2 ribbing. Sleeves worked in K 2, P 2, K 3, P 2 ribbing. Size 5 needles used for cuffs. Size 8 needles used for sleeves, collar, and pocket tabs. Jacket may be plain or plaid. The same idea can be used for a man's jacket, using a knitted band around the neck and down front edge of a V-neck jacket. Continue Below
This is page 4 of 6: Continue Page: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | Source: This article is re-published by Eastman Publishing. The information contained in this article is from a Cooperative Extension Service, Oregon publication titled Knitting - Creative Use of Leisure Time - 1966.
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