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Page 5: Knitting Helps
There are two selvages on round knitting, the cast-on edge and the cast-off edge. On flat knitting there are also selvages at the right and left edges. Each selvage will vary with the intended purpose of the fabric. They must be chosen with care before knitting starts to obtain the best effect. There are several methods of casting on, each with its own purpose. This circular gives some of the methods. In general the cast-on and cast-off stitches should be as elastic as the knitted fabric. To help secure an elastic selvage, try casting on a larger needle or the two needles you will use for knitting. For casting off, to secure an elastic selvage, you may wish to use a larger needle or a crochet hook. Side selvages are important. They must be elastic, neither too loose nor too tight. If the edge is to be exposed, the finish may be "chained" or decorative. A firm edge is needed when the edge is to be joined in a seam. For this reason edges that are to be seamed have all stitches knitted. Slipping the first stitch gives a finish less firm and is used at times on the selvage that forms a finished edge. Sewing Seams When you finish knitting a garment, it is a big temptation to sew up the seams as quickly as possible. Don't be tempted! Seams are a very important part of a knitted garment and good seams take time, care, and patience. In the knitting project you will learn to make several kinds of seams. Sometimes it is best to use one seam, at other times it is best to use another. The important thing is to use the seam that looks best and is most suitable for the article. When you finish knitting a garment, decide which seam to use. It is also a good idea to block your garment before you sew it together. Whichever type of seam you may choose to use, be sure your finished seam has as much elasticity or stretch as your knitted fabric. Flat-overcast Seam 1. If you look carefully at the side edge of a knitted fabric, you will see that the end stitches of your fabric have two threads forming a top and bottom edge (if you have slipped the first stitch of each row).
2. Place the two pieces to be sewn with edges even and wrong side up. 3. If you have a thread on either piece of your garment long enough to sew your seam with, use it to sew your seam; otherwise thread a piece of the same yarn you used in knitting your garment into your tapestry needle and attach the yarn with a. slip knot to the wrong side of the piece on the right. Leave about 2 inches of yarn on the end of the knot. Do not cut the yarn close to the knot as the knot may come untied. 4. Now insert your needle into the top half of the first stitch on the right and then into the top half of the first stitch on the left and pull the thread through the two stitches firmly.
5. Next insert your needle into the top half of the second stitch on the right and the top half of the second stitch on the left. Put the fingers of your left hand under your work and put your thumb on the outside of the first stitch you made. Hold the first stitch tightly with your thumb and fingers as you pull the thread for your second stitch firmly. Continue in this manner, sewing through the top half of every stitch, until you have finished your seam.
Be very careful to hold the last stitch completed with the thumb and fingers of your left hand while you pull the thread to tighten the stitch you are working on. In this way your seam will be firm but still have elasticity. BUT, if you fail to hold each stitch in this manner each time you pull a new stitch, it will pull your thread too tightly the full length of your seam and the seam will be too tight. 6. Check your work every few inches to make sure that it is flat and even on the right side and that your seam has enough "stretch."
If you find that the two edges are not coming out even (in other words if one side has a few more stitches left than the other) skip a stitch now and then on the longer side to make them come out even at the end of your seam. 7. When you have completed your seam it should be flat and even with almost as much stretch or elasticity as your knitted fabric. Woven Seam 1. Place the two pieces to be joined with edges together evenly, right side up. 2. If you have a thread on either piece of your garment long enough to sew your seam, use it; otherwise thread a piece of the same yarn you used in your garment into your tapestry needle and attach the yarn with a slip knot to the wrong side of the piece on the right. Leave about two inches of yarn on the end of the knot. Do not cut the yarn close to the knot as the knot may come untied.
3. Insert your needle into the back side of the first stitch on the right hand side and bring needle up to the right side of work through the first stitch on the left edge. 4. Insert needle down through center of first stitch on right edge, pass under two rows, draw yarn through to right side.
5. Insert needle in center of stitch on corresponding row of left edge, pass under two rows as before, draw yarn through to right side. Continue to work in this manner from side to side, matching rows.
Be careful not to pull the yarn too tightly as the seam must have elasticity. Continue Below
This is page 5 of 6: Continue Page: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | Source: This article is re-published by Eastman Publishing. The information contained in this article is from a Cooperative Extension Service, Oregon publication titled Knitting - Creative Use of Leisure Time - 1966.
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