| The dimensions of this Flag Display Case plan
is suitable for a large size flag. However, with some dimension changes a smaller case may
be made for a smaller flag. The inside dimensions are 23¾" long by 11¾" wide.
Before proceeding with this plan, fold your flag and measure along the bottom and its
width so that you are sure it will fit properly. Material List:
2 pcs. 20"x4¼"x¾" - Sides
1 pc. 26"x4¼"x¾" - Bottom
1 pc. Plexiglass 25"x13"x1/8" - Front
1 pc. Hardboard 25"x13"x1/4" - Backing
Shaping and Dado Cuts of the Frame
Pieces
The three frame pieces that are 4¼" wide
by ¾" thick, may be shaped with a router or shaper before mitering the ends to
length. Also the two dado cuts may be made (as shown in the drawing below) before cutting
them to length. These three pieces may also be made individually.
End View of the Bottom and Side Pieces
Before making the dado cut A,
measure the thickness of the plexiglass (you may also use real glass if you have the means
to cut it and you prefer to use it instead of plexiglass). The width of slot A
will be dependant upon the thickness of plexiglass that you use. Make the width of the
slot slightly larger than the thickness of the plexiglass. The plexiglass should just slip
into the slot and not extremely loose or tight.
Rabbet B the correct depth in
order to accept the thickness of the backing that you use plus and extra 1/8" in
order to allow extra surface to secure it into place. For instance, if a hardboard backing
is 1/4" thick, then B should be 3/8" wide. A dado blade on your
table saw or a router with a rabbet bit that has a pilot may be used to make B.
Cutting the Angles on the Bottom and
Side Pieces
Front View
A larger view is on the printer friendly page.
The most critical cuts are the 45º degree
angles, plus getting the lengths of the pieces accurate while sawing them. The three
pieces must be sawn exactly the lengths given in the drawing above in order for the flag
case to assemble properly. Also, the pieces must be sawn on exactly 45º in order for the
butt joints to fit tightly together.
The Material List
allows for extra material on the bottom and side pieces so that you can make the angled
cut on one end and still have enough left over to saw the opposite end.
The 45º angles may be sawn with a miter saw,
table saw or radial arm saw. Cut the angle on one end of each of the side pieces and the
bottom piece.
Set a stop (if you have one) to the desired
length of the side pieces.
Flip the piece over and rest the end of the
previously made angled cut against the stop and cut the angle on the opposite end of a
side piece. After cutting the first side piece, cut the second side piece the same against
the stop.
Adjust the stop to the length of the desired
dimension for the bottom piece. Set the previously angled cut of the bottom piece against
the stop and cut the 45º angle on the opposite end.
You may also leave these pieces slightly
longer and touch up the angles and/or the length of them on a disc sander if you have one
available.
Plexiglass and Backing Dimensions
Front View
A larger view is on the printer friendly page.
The same dimensions are used to cut out the
plexiglass front and the hardboard backing.
Assembly
Glue and clamp the upper 90º butt joint that
connects both side pieces. Wipe off any excess glue. Use V-Nails,
two 1" finish nails or two 1" brads to secure this joint. Drill two pilot holes
set in 3/8" from the edge and 2" apart in order to avoid splitting the wood
before installing the finish nails. Use a drill bit that is slightly under the size of the
thickness of the finish nails. Allow time for the glue to set before continuing assembly.
If you're using finish nails, dry assemble the
bottom piece to the side pieces and clamp. Drill the pilot holes for the finish nails
before applying a finish.
Apply a finish on the two connected side
pieces and the bottom piece as desired. Avoid finishing the angled ends of the bottom
piece, so that it retains its length without an added thickness of finish. Allow time for
the finish to dry completely.
Slide the plexiglass into the two side pieces'
slots. Glue and clamp the the bottom piece into place. Use the same previous method to
secure these joints.
To a apply a clear coat of finish, tape the
edges of the plexiglass where it meets the edges of the frame with masking tape. Apply a
clear coat or two as desired to the frame and avoid getting any on the plexiglass. Allow
time to dry and remove the masking tape.
Place your flag into the case and insert the
hardboard backing. You may insert three small 1/2" brads into the frame's wood
surface at a depth of about 1/4" in order to secure the backing. One brad inserted on
each of the side pieces and the bottom will be sufficient.
To hang this Flag Display Case on a wall,
position a Sawtooth
Hanger down from the peak until the nail holes that attach it are centered equally in
the middle of both side pieces. Then press the Sawtooth Hanger's nails into the wood or
gently tap them in with a hammer. It would be best to lay the front side of the frame onto
a soft cloth in order to avoid damage while installing a hanger to the back.
The width of the Flag Display Case's frame is
wide enough to set on a mantel if desired.
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