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If the door is to be fitted to a framed wooden building, provision will have been made to adapt part of the framing as the jambs or side-posts and lintel; but if the door is to be inserted in a brick wall, or a wall of any other material, a frame must be made for its reception. In either case the principles of construction are the same, and as the amateur does not now require to be told how to make a frame for a door, we will take it for granted that the door is intended for a shed, barn, workshop or some outbuilding that he/she has built of wood, or any other purpose. In this case A and B are two uprights, portions of the framing, mortised into the horizontal piece of wood D at the bottom, which serves as the sill of the door. At a suitable height, say 6ft.in the clear above the sill, a piece of quartering, C, is mortised, or notched, into the uprights, as may be most convenient. Mortising is strongest and neatest, and as the insertion of C should be provided for when the framing is in course of construction there will be no difficulty in putting in the lintel in this manner. If the frame is made separately for insertion in a wall, the ends of the sill and lintel should project beyond the uprights, as shown at E, F, G, and H. Now for the door. Suppose the width between the uprights to be 2ft. 3in., three pieces of match-boarding, 5/8in. or 3/4in. thick and 9in. wide, will be sufficient for the vertical planks shown at K, L, M. These planks, it need scarcely be said, extend from top to bottom. Two ledges or slips of wood N, O about 6in. wide and 3/4in. thick, are then placed horizontally, as shown in the figure; and to these the planks K, L and M are nailed with clasp nails (or you may use screws), which should be used because the ends can be turned and clenched in the ledges. These nails are driven in from the outside. When the door is a light one, two ledges are sufficient, but when it is large and heavy, it is better to use three ledges, one in the center, and one near the top, and a third near the bottom of the door. To strengthen the door shallow notches are cut in S and O, at P and Q, to receive the corners of the brace R, to which the boards that form the door are also nailed and clenched. When three ledges are used two braces are required; these braces must be inserted in precisely the same manner as the brace shown in Figure 1.
The door is now complete, and all that remains to be done is to fix it in the position it is intended to occupy. In helping us to understand how this is to be done, Figure 2, which shows the plan or section of the door through one of the ledges will prove of service. The door must be fitted nicely into the opening and held in position between the jambs A and B, so that the outer surface of the ledges is flush with the inner surface of the jambs. Marks with a pencil must then be made to show how far the outer surface of the door projects along the opposite faces of the jambs. The door must them be removed, and stops, as shown by C and D, nailed to the sides of the jambs and the under surface of the lintel. The door must then be set against the jambs, and two thin pieces of wood inserted between the sill and the bottom of the door, so that the door may not drag or bear against the upper surface of the sill when it is opened or shut. A pair of T hinges, sometimes called cross-garnets, must then be screwed to the jamb A, and the ledges N, O, as shown at S and T in Figure 1, and at S in the sectional diagram, Figure 2. Hinges of this description vary considerably in size, the smaller sorts being used for box-hinges, and the larger kinds for doors, the lids of dust-bins, etc. For a light door, the tongue of the hinge, that is to say, the part which is screwed to the ledge, should not be less than 9in., and the cross-piece about 4in.; for a heavy door a larger and stronger hinge should be used. Lastly, the latch of the door must be put on, and this may be a simple thumb-latch, unless a spring-latch or a lock is preferred. If a thumb-latch is used, a small block of wood, U shown in Figure 1, must be fixed to the door, of the same thickness as the ledge, and to this the lifting bar of the latch must be screwed and the iron loop within which it works, the catch into which it drops being screwed to the jamb B. A hole must be cut through the board M and the block U to admit of the insertion of the lever by which the bar of the latch is lifted. Such is the ledge door, and as this is the kind of door which will be chiefly made by the amateur for his/her sheds, barns, workshops, tool-houses, and outbuildings of every description, except greenhouses, care has been taken to describe every part of it, and to show its construction and the mode adopted in "hanging" it, as clearly and fully as possible. Digitally Re-published and Edited by Eastman Publishing The above how-to information is an excerpt from an early 20th century book titled "Every Man His Own Mechanic". The information contained in an early 20th century woodworking book can be very valuable for even today's woodworker.
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